Do My Own Lawn Care – How to Get Rid of Poa Annua – E14

It’s been awhile since that’s made an appearance! Upon first inspection, it looks like we’re
making some really good progress and we’ve got some good green up going on. But looks
are deceiving and we’ve got a problem. Now I’ve got to admit, when I first started
seeing it, I thought man this is awesome! The yard’s starting to green up, I’m starting
to see some results! YES! Looking good. But upon further inspection, things started to
look a little suspicious. As it started to get thicker and taller, these
little white seed heads cane with it. And I knew it wasn’t Bermuda but I couldn’t pinpoint
exactly what it was. So I took some really high res pictures on my phone, sent it over
to the customer service staff, to see if they could identify it for me, and they did. And
it is Poa Annua! We also got a lot of bare spots but we’re
not talking about that. We’re talking about Poa Annua. Also known as Annual Bluegrass. Not only are the looks deceiving of it, the
name’s deceiving as well. It’s not grass, it’s an annual weed that is pretty common
in most yards. And you can also find it scattered through some gardens. It’s a pretty difficult weed to control because
it can produce hundreds upon hundreds of seeds in one season. And those seeds, they can lay
dormant for several years and not sprout up right away. Now in talking with the customer service staff
the identifying characteristics of Poa Annua grass, is that it’s a tall tasseled seed stalk
that will typically stand above the rest of the lawn and becomes visible in late spring
or early summer. Now while the seed stalk can be pretty tall,
if you cut it short, it can still produce seeds. Now Poa Annua grass in the yard can be a problem.
It can die in hot weather and it will leave very unsightly nasty looking brown spots throughout
the yard. It also thrives in cool weather. When most
grasses and lawns start to go dormant, that’s when it chooses to invade. Which is why putting down a pre-emergent in
the fall is so important. If you’ll remember I missed my boat for putting down a fall pre-emergent
application and that’s why I’ve got this lovely beautiful problem on my hands. Poa Annua germinates in late fall and early
spring, so our timing of trying to control it is pretty critical. Now most people who know what they’re doing… That’s most certainly not me! …will apply a pre-emergent in early fall
and again in early spring to really gain control of Poa Annua. That will help prevent the seeds
from sprouting, getting into the soil and really germinating and taking over your yard. But Poa Annua seeds are pretty tough. They
can survive without germinating for many many seasons. By using the early fall and early
spring pre-emergent applications, that will help control Poa Annua over time. But keep in mind, you’re going to have retreat
the yard many seasons to completely get rid of it in the lawn. There are, however, specialty
herbicide products that will help kick its butt in the here and now. And that’s exactly
what I’m going to do. Again, ignore all the bare spots but the question
we have to ask is to cut or not to cut it down and then spray. And the answer is, according
to our customer service staff, don’t cut the weeds before spraying them. Reason being,
they’re thriving and they’re growing right now. And if you scalp it down and cut it,
you’ll stress it out and it will be less likely that the herbicide that we’re putting down
will be absorbed into the weed. Now the product I’m going to be using is a
WG. A water soluble granule. And all that means is, its in granule form and when you
add it to your tank and put water in there, that granule breaks down and dissolves and
gives you a finished solution. Now the herbicide that I’m using is an herbicide
control for certain broad leaf, sedge, and grassy weeds in turf. I’ll leave a link in
the description below so you can click over and read more about it. But, we’re mixed up!
We’re ready to go! Let’s do the dance! Meaning the herbicide, weed control dance.
Well you know what I meant. Let’s do it! So there we go! That’s how to get rid of Poa
Annua Annual Bluegrass in the yard. Or at least start to try. It’s a tough weed to control
and kick out of the yard and this isn’t the first bout I’m going to have with it. But just like everything else we’ve done so
far, it’s an on going process and I don’t mind putting in the work. Per the label and our customer service staff,
I’ve got to let that sit for two to three days and go to work on that Poa Annua before
I go to mow it down. To be on the safe side and make sure this
stuff really goes to work, and so long as my H O A is on board with it and doesn’t give
me a nice little letter in the mail, I’ll probably wait about a week from now to get
the mower out and cut it down. Just like the moss in the back, this is only
the beginning of controlling the Poa Annua in the yard. I hope you found that helpful and we answered
some questions when it comes to Poa Annua, if you have any more, leave them in the comments
section below, shoot the customer service staff an email, or pick up the phone and give
them a ring. Make sure to subscribe to the channel by clicking
this button. Click this playlist to see everything we’ve done so far in the yard. And as always, thanks for watching!

25 thoughts on “Do My Own Lawn Care – How to Get Rid of Poa Annua – E14

  1. Thanks for the tips on getting rid of poa annua. My lawn is looking pretty good right now with the exception of the poa annua. Will you be providing an update down the road on how well / poorly the herbicide did?

  2. Herbicide on new grass seed? Not sure how long it's been since you did the aeration/overseed, but pretty sure this could stress any of the new grass. This is why I always struggle some with poa annua in the spring here in VA. I always aerate/overseed my fescue in the fall which means I can't put down a pre-emergent for poa that will emerge in the spring. After I overseed, it needs to be at least 6-8 weeks before any chemicals go down and by then it's most likely too late for the poa pre-emergent. Luckily as the fescue gets thicker each year, the less poa I get. I was able to hand pull most of it this year, was only in a few spots this year.

  3. Love your videos Paul! I have plenty of POA Annua in my tall fescue yard. Any suggestions for an affordable post emergent that is safe for cool season lawns? Noticed that most the herbicides you listed are either for warm season lawns or for gardens. Keep up the good work

  4. i see this cannot be used in cool season grass. Is there anything that you can use in cool season grass to try and kill it. Thanks

  5. Poa Anna is the bane of my existence. I put down Scott's Halts (Pendi) in March and Dimension 4 weeks later and I still have new Poa popping up in my lawn.

  6. Good video. Though you probably should have mentioned that the product you used is NOT labeled for cool season turf grasses and is actually labeled to kill cool season grasses that invade in warm season lawns.

  7. I like the drone out foottage. Shows a good contrast between yours and your neighbors yard. Ignoreing the spots it looks greener and I can see the potential

  8. This series is great! You should really include a note or mention in the videos that some of these applications are specific to warm season grasses. It doesn't look like the Monument 75WG is suitable for cool season grass types. Maybe I'm wrong there but people still need to know that not all treatments can be used on all grass types. 😉

  9. Is there any particular reason that you didn't use the colorant this time? I thought that was a really helpful tip for knowing where you are spraying your herbicide.

  10. Great video! Looks like the first link (packet) has been discontinued? Which product of those links provided will also kill dandelion along with the poa?

  11. Bro, you totally missed the entire purpose of the video. We want to know WHAT TO USE TO KILL THE WEED. You answer is “use a freaking mystery herbicide?” Why don’t you discuss what Bernice to use and why it works vs other types. That is why we come to. Videos like this. We honestly don’t care about your yard, or your neighbors yard. We wanted to know what to use to kill poa annua. This was a let down. ‘Use a Herbicide’ he says. yea No kidding; that’s obvious.

  12. So … how do I kill post emergent Poa Annua in a Kentucky Bluegrass yard? The product you originally mentioned seems to be discontinued (I need perhaps 1 gram, not 25 grams for > $300). But the real question is as stated. I've been researching for a few hours now, and I'm not confident any product will not also kill my grass. Any words of wisdom? 🙂

  13. I always like to try removing as much Poa through cultural practices (mowing, scalping, and verticutting) before applying an herbicide like Monument to kill it off. You can kill a bunch of Poa this way, as Poa has been proven to live in excessively thatchy lawns. Also removing the Poa and thatch prevents the Poa from dropping seed after it dies, and allows the desired turf to set in. The next season after I have removed the majority of the Poa, I apply a preemergent like Prodiamine (Barricade) and fertilize so the desired turf sets in, and regrow the canopy as much as possible. Then if there is any Poa left I would apply Monument to kill off any Poa, which hasn’t been my experience because taking the Bermuda down to the bare dirt and the preemergent has taken care of it. I should also mention that bagging should be done and aeration avoided while Poa is present, as it has been shown in studies to make Poa worse (and makes sense why it would).

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