Fill The Garden With FREE Shrubs And Bushes | How to take Semi Ripe Cuttings


Hello, it’s late summer, early autumn and
now is the right time to take semi ripe cuttings to increase the number of
plants in your garden. And today I’m going to show you how. I’m Liz Zorab and
this is Byther Farm. On this channel you’ll find hints and tips and tutorials
about gardening and homesteading. And today I’m clearing some space in this
border that’s had potatoes growing in it and next year I want it to be full of
shrubs and perennials. And I’m going to show you how I’m going to fill my garden
for free. There are several different types of
semi ripe cuttings and so that you don’t have to keep scrolling back through this
video I’ll leave some timestamps in the
description box below and then you’ll be able go straight to that
type of cutting for the plants that you have. And to take your semi ripe cuttings
you need two things, you need secateurs, nice and sharp and clean, a plastic bag,
preferably one that seals at the top. And the first one is a basic semi ripe
cutting. So what does semi ripe mean? Well it means it’s not the very soft new
growth from this year, but it’s also not brown hardwood. It’s a bit of the soft
green going down to where it becomes more woody. When you’re choosing your
cuttings avoid anything that is diseased or damaged or has got very unusual
growth and where possible take from more horizontal growth, where there are small
gaps, just small spaces between the leaves. And the other thing is avoid
pieces that have got flowers on them because you want non-flowering growth if
you can. A great way to make sure you’ve got good material for semi ripe
cuttings is to prune really hard in the spring. So this lovely fuschia here, it’s a
hardy fuschia and I really like it and as you can see it grows really big.
So I’ve got a piece here it’s a non- flowering piece, it’s quite a horizontal
piece, the end is still soft growth and then a bit further actually comes a
little bit more woody. And I’m going to cut below a leaf joint like this. So having done that the very next thing I’m going
to do is get it into the bag to try and avoid it drying out from evaporation. I’m feeling it’s very soft at this ends and then it becomes a little harder and then down
here it becomes really woody. So where it’s still slightly soft and not
completely woody that’s where I’m cutting. A quick word of health and safety while
you’re taking your cuttings – make sure that you lock your secateurs in between
taking the cuttings while you’re walking around the garden, because it’s just so
easy to have an accident with them. And then for a heel cutting you’re going to
take away a very small piece of the stem or the branch as you take your cutting
so it will come away with a very small piece of the stem. And this is the heel. And again I’m going to get that straight
into the bag to avoid evaporation. Now if I don’t get these into some compost
straight away I can store them in a cool place as long as I’ve sealed the bag up
for up to maybe 12 hours but it is better if you can do them sooner rather
than later. And then there’s a basal cutting and brooms responds particularly
well to this. Now I possibly think this old broom is maybe a bit too large to
take a cutting from as a basal cutting. I’m going to give it a go anyway
and that means cutting a piece off right down at the base. So I’ve taken it but I
suspect this might be too woody and I might just have to use this as a basic
cut using the green there as it becomes brown but we’ll give it a go. And the
last one I’m going to tell you about is called a mallet cut and it’s great for
plants like mahonia, it’ll work for any plant where the leaf comes off on
alternate sides of the stem. And you need to make your cutting just above where
the leaf meets the stem, because right down at that joint is
where the growth bud is. And it’s strong stuff. So there’s your cutting, I might actually just try and cut it a little
bit closer to that joint. There we go. So I have actually trimmed that down to
right next to where the leaf is and I’m going to take it off below a leaf at the
bottom. I don’t need to keep this leaf that’s at the bottom, so that can come
away and I don’t need this leaf either so that one can come away. But the other
two leaves I do want to keep because they will feed the cutting. So let’s lock
the secateurs so they’re safe. But if I put it in the pot like this it’s going
to fall over and so I have seen a really nifty thing where you roll the leaf up. This is so clever, I was really pleased
when I saw this. So roll the leaf up like that and then you secure it with an
elastic band which luckily I happen to have with me! So that’s now secured and when I put
this into the compost I’m going to put it all the way in, so that this cutting
here is level with the top of the soil. I’ll leave information and links to the
tools have materials I’ve used for this video in the description box below. And so for potting them up I’m using a multi-purpose compost to which I’m
adding a couple of handfuls of grit and some vermiculite. If you don’t have grit
or vermiculite, it’s absolutely fine just to use the compost as it is
and that’s what I would normally use, but I have these so I thought I’d use them.
And what they will do is lighten the soil and make it more free draining so
those little cuttings aren’t sitting in wet. They need to be moist if they sit in
water they will more easily rot. So I’ve put the soil in I’m giving a shake to
get out any air bubbles but I’m not pressing it down firmly I’m literally
just leaving like that for now. So here’s my bag of cuttings. For the basic cut you
want to remove the very soft top and I’ll strip a whole load of the lower
leaves. Now because this is rosemary I’m going to keep that to use in the kitchen. The quickest way to strip the leaves is to put your hand above some of the
leaves hold it at the top and run your hand down very gently and that should
peel the leaves off. What you’re aiming for is cuttings that are 4 to 6 inches
long and have got the softer material at the top heading down towards the woody
material. so I’m going to cut that one just below
a leaf joint and into my roots and powder give it a quick tap so there’s
not too much on it and into the soil and again firming around it now if you feel
that there’s a lot of leaf you can cut the leaves back by half this is
particularly useful on plants with larger leaves as the chances of
evaporation will be greater so your heel cutting is exactly the same thing you’re
going to take some of the leaves off I’m going to cut above the fourth fifth leaf
I’m going to I am going to remove that one and then I’m going to cut some of
these back a little bit so there’s not so much chance of evaporation they want
to put the heel into your rooting powder and again tap off the excess and even
though I’ve only got one of these I’m still going to put it towards the edge
where it will stay warmer apparently so in it goes and I’m making sure it’s got
plenty of compost contacting it when I make a label I like to say what the
plant is and a variety if I know one and also the date now I don’t know the
variety of this so I called it bay cooking so that I know that this is one
that I can use in the kitchen so what I’m going to do is let them sit in some
water for about 40 minutes and the water should soak up through the compost and
if it hasn’t at that point use my watering can with the rose on it
and to give it a little watering from above these then need to go into a quiet
corner so I there in the corner of a cold greenhouse now into a cold frame
I’m going to leave mine just outside the polytunnel where it’s fairly sheltered
and I’m going to keep an eye on them make sure they don’t dry out completely
and then hopefully in a few weeks to a few months time we’ll have new plants I
thought I would show you it’s really pretty little salvia it was taken as a
semi right cutting on the 29th of September 2018 so a year later and it’s
grown very well it’s got a huge number of roots coming out of the bottom I
really do need to get this into the ground I’ve had it sitting on soil and
you can see the roots have come through the bottom of the pot so this is well
and truly ready to get into the ground to grow on for years to come

26 thoughts on “Fill The Garden With FREE Shrubs And Bushes | How to take Semi Ripe Cuttings

  1. I have a few little fig trees that I started from cuttings in June, and I just potted them up. Definitely going to try some rosemary. Would the same method work for lavender as well?

  2. What a great tutorial Liz, very informative and I am sure this is going to help loads of people who wish to take cuttings. Great stuff

  3. I'm sowing fresh perennial seeds, like lupin and pansies. I'm Jealous of your pampas, mine has no feathers yet, they usually appear in October.

  4. We just moved to a 2 acre home in the country at spring time this year. The previous owners loved their acres, we've found so many things we know what they are and some we're trying to figure out what they are. We have a monsterous wall of forsythias and would like to make a privacy wall with them all around our perimeter, to keep the grandbaby and dog inside our property. Do you dig up roots or do cuttings with forsythias? Thanks and blessings to you! Angela

  5. Great video–learned a lot! My husband watched with me and asked if I'd found a new YT'er….I told him, no…it's Liz Zorab…and he did a double take and said he didn't recognize you. 🙂 You've always been pretty, but you are looking very fit now!

  6. I do rose cuttings in regular soil OK but killed the variegated red osier dogwood cuttings with mold at 81 degrees F in the bubble cloner. Cannabis likes 81F fine but I'll try the dogwood again a few degrees cooler, say 78F. Whaddaya say? Love your input 🙂

  7. if you fail with semi ripe cuttings, there are always other options liz.. i found that any failure in the autumn is more likely to be a success late spring……………………brian

  8. Thanks for the video Liz. I've had a few successes with cuttings (and a lot of failures 🙂 ) How do you know which type of cutting to do? Sorry if I missed it in the video

  9. I can see you are a fan of the gorgeous Carol Klein, Liz! I can just imagine how excited she would be to see what you have done with your beautiful garden at Byther Farm in such a short time.

  10. Excellent information Liz!! Thank you very much!! Really interesting techniques that I had no clue about!! It's full of valuable information! Thank you!!! This video is bookmarked!!! Marvellous trick with the elastic!! I do love propagation – look at that salvia!!! Fabulous for free!! Have a wonderful weekend, my friend!!! 🤗🤗🤗

  11. That was a great video liz. I wonder if this is possible with my Apple tree. I have a few shrubs that I would love to do this with. But never really knew how. Thank you xx p.s I love your outfit. ❤

  12. How beautiful your home in Wales looks Liz. It,s Sunday here and guess what , although it's over 30 c here it rained cars and dogs and we had no electricity for a couple of hours. Really dangerous driving in the rain and thunder and lightning. It looks as if you had a lovely day.
    Thanks so much for the very informative information on cuttings. Have a wonderful Sunday. Love Margaret

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