GROW RARE SEEDS | Fall Planting 101

Hey everyone this is Shannie from Baker
Creek and today we’re gonna be talking about planting for a fall harvest. A lot
of people get confused; they think fall planting maybe happens in the fall. In
reality, fall harvest means you’re going to be planting in the middle of the
summer. So maybe you’ve just pulled your garlic out in July, or you’ve cleared out
some of those spring crops, and you have some open space in your garden, and you’d
like to plant things like carrots or beets or maybe Brussels sprouts or
broccoli and you want them to mature in the fall so that you can have lots of
beautiful meals through the winter and the fall months. So we’re going to teach
you today about planting for harvest in the fall. So as beginner gardeners,
sometimes we get a little fatigued by the middle of the summer, and we don’t
take advantage of the fall planting window in the mid summer, so I want to
teach you guys some of the most basic concepts for starting a fall planted
garden. I want to see you guys it’s a beautiful bounty through the fall and
winter months, and this is how you’re going to do it. So the most crucial
factor when planting for a fall harvest is timing – you’re going to want to find
out a few different dates and days before you get to planting. The most
important and firstly you’re going to want to figure out your first fall frost
date. You may not know what that is at this point, maybe you’re a brand-new
gardener and this is your first season and you don’t know when to expect your
first frost. So you can actually find that information online – you can find it
on the Farmers Almanac, there are a number of resources where you can find
out depending on your zip code, or your county or location when to expect your
first frost. Here in Missouri, in the Ozarks, we can usually expect our first
for us to be around October 17th, but that can range. Next you’re going to want
to pick the crops that you’re going to grow and find out how many days to
maturity those crops are going to need. Days to maturity means how many days
from planting the seed until harvest that plant is going to need to grow. For
example, things like brussel sprouts need ninety to a hundred days, while
things like radishes and cilantro only need about twenty days, sometimes less.
There’s a huge range so you want to take into consideration the date of your
first frost and how many days to maturity your crop is going to have and
that’s going to help you count back on your calendar to determine the day that
you need to plant your crop. Also be sure to keep in mind that the autumn sun is a
lot less strong than the early summer sun so you’re going to actually add
about a week to actually two weeks to your days to maturity to really get an
accurate read on how many days your plant is going to take to harvest. For
example if you have brussel sprouts that are going to take a hundred days you’re
going to actually add twelve days to that – twelve to 14 days to
that to really get an accurate measure on how many days it will truly take.
Plants grow slower during this time of the season. So let’s go over timing once
more. First, it’s so important to find out your first frost date. Second, figure out
the days to maturity on each crop that you plan to grow Third, add two weeks
because it’s going to be much slower growing for this latter half of the
season and fourth, it’s important to figure out whether your crop can handle
cool weather or if it’s going to be need to be pulled out of the ground by the
time of that first frost because that’s going to determine when you’re going to
plant your crops. So one of the most important considerations for planting
midsummer for a fall harvest is to think about the soil temperature. It’s very
different than when you’re planting in the spring. When you plant in the spring
the soil is cool and it’s typically pretty moist. When you’re planting in
high summer, that soil is already warmed up quite a bit and it can be dry very
easily. This is sometimes, for some regions, the driest part of the year, so
you want to keep that into consideration. There are things, tricks that you can
implement to keep your plants cool so that they
can survive the early hot part of their growing stages and then as the season
cools off they’ll really take off and grow with ease. So the first thing you
can do is establish microclimates in your garden. This is important for any
kind of gardening technique. You want to take a walk around your garden and
figure out where’s the coolest part of your garden – it’s probably the north
facing side, it’s probably an area maybe under the shade of a shade casting tall
plant like a sunflower, or maybe some corn stalks, maybe you have a wall of
corn. But establish a shady zone, a cooler zone, or maybe a more moist area in your
garden and those are going to be places too that are ideal to set up your fall-
your mid summer planting for fall harvest. For example, putting your lettuce
crop right at the base of your corn plants where they’re casting shade is
great. Lettuce does not like to germinate in
the super hot mid summer heat, but if it’s in a shaded area or it’s kept nicely
moist, it’s going to do much better. If you’re unable to identify a cooler microclimate
in your garden, you can always create one. Try investing in a little bit of shade
cloth. You can get dark shade cloth, you can get the shade cloth with reflective
outer sides, whatever you choose. This is going to cool down your soil
significantly and help your crops that may be a little bit more on the cool
weather loving side to get established until the weather truly cools off in
your area. And some crops just need to be started indoors and transplanted out
when the weather gets a little bit cooler. And I’m specifically talking
about brassicas when I mention this, so anything in the cabbage family which
would be cabbage, kohlrabi, brussel sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower – anything in
that family is going to do much better if you start it in a cool space indoors.
Maybe just a sunny window, maybe your greenhouse, anywhere you could get the
plants established in a tray, in a pot and in a cooler area maybe out of the
direct and intense sun. Get those plants to get established indoors in a cooler
area or a shade house and then transplant them out when the weather is
cooled off just a bit and the plants are about four inches tall and nice and
and established with a good root system. Be sure once you get them in the ground
to get them really well watered and keep them well watered. That’s essential.
Irrigation is a really important consideration for planting for a fall
harvest. You’ve got the hottest part of the
season right now, and your soil is quite warm now. Irrigating is going to help
dramatically – it’s going to help cool the soil and in this drought a time of year
it’s going to help germination a lot. So trying things like a drip irrigation
system to have consistent moisture release throughout the day is essential.
Overhead watering can help, but a drip system is ideal. Another way to ensure
that your midsummer soil doesn’t get too hot or dry is to apply a good layer of
mulch. Mulch is going to help protect against temperature fluctuations and
moisture fluctuations. Its going to lock the moisture in the soil it’s going to
keep it cooler and more consistent and that is means less stress for your
plants. So don’t pile the mulch up against directly up against the plants.
Give them a bit of space, but a nice thick layer, a few inches of mulch is
going to be so helpful in keeping more consistent conditions for your plants
during that young and really vulnerable time when they’re just getting
established. So just to recap – keep those plants cool.
How are you going to do it? Apply mulch, consistent watering, long deep drinks of
water, find your microclimate, and plant your
cool loving crops in the coolest part of your garden, and if need be bring some
shade cloth into the garden and create your own microclimate. One big factor,
probably one of the biggest challenges of planting in midsummer for a fall
harvest, is the pest pressure. Now when you plant in the early spring, the pests
are just waking up and coming into their lifecycles, but in the midsummer you’ve
got full-blown pest populations. So you’re really going to want to implement
some preventative measures with your plants because you’re going to have
young vulnerable plants just a few inches tall and then a pest population
that’s at its peak. So when those plants are really young
that’s going to be the most challenging time where you really have to stay on
top of your pest population. So one of the first things is to provide a
physical barrier. This can be anything from row cover to netting and you can
even use shade cloth but it’s a way to keep physically keep the bugs away from
your plants. You just have to be really vigilant with these physical barriers
and not open them to pest exposure accidentally, because if they get up
under that cover, they’re going to become a problem. Don’t forget you can do things
like companion planting to discourage pests. So adding a few calendula or
marigold plants in between your vegetable patch is going to help ward
off some of those pests. Organic sprays that you can spray especially
preventatively things like capsicum, which is just derived from hot peppers,
that you can start spraying when the plants are quite young. It’s just a
foliar spray that you apply and that’s going to really prevent those leaf
biting insects. So for protecting against pests again, remember try a physical
barrier like a shade cloth or an agribon row cover or netting, or try something
like a preventative spray you can use things like kaolin clay, or capsicum hot
pepper oil, things like that. Also inter planting things like marigolds and
calendulas will help tremendously and keeping the pests pressure down. So
just a few of my favorite summer planted fall harvested crops are things like
Asian greens. Asian greens are probably my number one favorite green to plant in
the high season for harvest and fall. They love cool weather they’re going to
take on a really nice complex sweet flavor, as the weather cools down. And
they’re densely nutritious. They’re gonna give you salads all fall. And if you give
them a little bit of protection – if you live in a cooler climate, and you get a
hard frost they can even grow through the winter. Now if you have a more mild
climate, they’re going to grow right into the winter. They’re a really versatile
delicious, nutritious crop. Things like brassicas taste so much better when you
harvest them in the fall and they tend to have less pests issues when they
mature and are harvested in cooler weather because most of the pests have
died off by then. Root crops like carrots and beets are gonna store nicely
right into the winter, and they’re gonna provide beautiful nutrition throughout
the winter. And they actually take on a nice sweet flavor as they get exposed to
a little bit of frost, so they’re going to even get better as you harvest them
through the fall. So I can’t wait to see you guys plant these beautiful midsummer
gardens and have awesome fall harvest veggies throughout the fall and the
winter. It just takes a few steps, consideration and a little bit of math
getting those dates and times correct and you’re going to have an amazing fall
harvest. you

18 thoughts on “GROW RARE SEEDS | Fall Planting 101

  1. Did I miss the garlic being sold? I’ve been checking and haven’t seen anything on your site 😕

    Definitely fall planting with the beautiful seeds I have from you guys

  2. Every year, I use August 1 as the (indoor) "start" date for the cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower that will be harvested from the fall garden. Carrots, beets , and radishes are direct-sown a couple weeks later. (My garden is in Zone 8 and has a microclimate for "b".). Most of the time, these dates work well. Once in a while…we get an extremely early hard frost. Kate in Olympia, WA – 8/5/2019.

  3. I don't remember the last time I planted a Fall garden. 100 degree heat just kills.
    We'll be installing shade cloth over the summer garden next year.

  4. I already planted some Brussels spouts and broccoli a month ago but their leaves totally destroyed by pests. I don’t know if they’re gonna survive

  5. People on Youtube are already uploading videos about Fall garden planting? You know what that means!….I'm already too late to plant out broccoli :

  6. I’m in South Florida Zone 10 A. We plant veggies at the end or first of the year. That’s about the only time I can use my greenhouse to start seedlings. Did I mention everything has to be in containers?

  7. Yeah it’s tricky, getting seeds to germinate in the hotter weather, hard to keep the consistent moisture etc

  8. Well crushed dry eggshells are a great deterant to slugs and snails. Plus they feed your garden soil. Apply generously around your plants.

  9. The fall garden is the best time to plant all kinds of veggies in Arizona since our springs are so short and our summers really put a a number on many veggies. I know some gardeners that only plant a fall garden. I agree; timing is the most important factor. I didn't know that you should add 2 weeks to days to maturity. I'll be sure to do that. I'm honestly surprised that northerners don't plant fall gardens. I can't imagine life without a nice crunchy carrot to finish off the long hot summer.

  10. I'm new to gardening. I live in zone 10a and everywhere I've looked with my zip says we don't get Frost's so no frost dates. Now what? Any other guide?

  11. I love the music! I love your Carharts. I just got the tool belt. That is a beautiful complimentary blouse. It forces us to face the reality that fall is coming. We do have to prepare for fall:-) After August NO MORE trimming roses:-( Tha aphids have covered my Swamp Milkweed. I just ignore them. They are considered to be protein for the Monarch caterpillars. I got my tags today! It is SO much harder to tag since I am no longer bringing the Monarch caterpillars in. I have a lot planted into BootStrap Farmer trays. I am using 200 cell and 50 cell trays. I am experimenting w/ Root Riot. The seeds pop out but the germination looks so good on the brown sponges. I just ordered more rockwool. It fits into my 50 cell trays. The economy is so harsh that more Americans should consider planting food crops. I just harvested some potatoes today that I just planted bc I wasn't going to eat the potato. It was store bought. I'm going to let my greens grow in the cell trays longer bc a Mourning Dove just sits by my planted garden, smh. I hear the blue jays but they won't come back for peanuts until the winter. I am looking forward to their return. The pretty cardinals come by my window for hulled sunflower seeds. The Song Sparrow visits as well. My Cypress vine is FINALLY in bloom. I planted it in my compost bin. I weave it in and out of the cow panel. It's pretty so I should see some hummingbirds. It is quick to freeze so I also plant Hairy Vetch to have a vining backup plant that can withstand colder temperatures. My sunflowers are nice and tall bc I sheet mulch w/ coffee grounds. Starbucks is so nice about giving them. I chart all my seedlings. This is a nursing habit that never dies:-) Well thank you Shannie for another wonderful presentation! My Rareseeds came today and I planted them all in rockwool. Lemon Balm should be planted in grow bags. I have mine planted that way and it is beautiful and it smells so wonderful when i trim it. The Swiss Plot made a lemonade with her Lemon Balm. I should make it too. She is an interesting gardener to follow. I get to see how she gardens in Switzerland. Surprisingly she does not use Felcos, hmm:-)

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