Humates – Best Organic Fertilizer For “Chelating” Nutrients

Hey guys! It’s Phil from
and I’m talking about organic fertilizers today more specifically biostimulants and
the last one I’m talking about is humates or humic and fulvic acids which are in – they’re
already gonna be in your soil if you have a good organic matter or really a good humus
content which is when organic matter has been broken down and broken down into humus. If you have that you’ll have them there
but often in our garden we’re kinda working on that and we don’t have it in the meantime
and so it kind be useful to bring in some humates into our garden. Now they’re also gonna be in compost to
a certain degree but it can be very beneficial to get a product that’s gonna be mined from
leonardite usually which is like a soft brown kind of coal or maybe from shale or other
kind of humic deposit. And so it can be useful to bring that in.
Now the humate that I use is a dry product it’s pretty messy so you don’t wanna even
bring it inside and I’ll show it to you there. Oh! It’s like, you know – it’s
like coal. And now my hands are gonna be all “humicky”
so it’s something you don’t want to – you don’t wanna really work with inside but
that’s my favorite. Well you know that’s one of the best ones to use because it’s
quite cost effective. There’s one I used to sell which was the
liquid. It’s just got to be pretty expensive though I mean I love it but you know you’re
paying for a water and so its kind get to be kind of expensive but it is easier to use,
it’s less messy and it’s really useful. If you just have a vegetable garden or something,
it’ll be useful to get this. If you have a lawn it can get pretty pricey to use that. So, either way if you go for liquid or dry
you wanna get a quality one and for that it can be difficult to find. You have to really
find someone you trust like the products I sold at the organic gardeners pants were both
great and Christine is still sells those there. But you have to find someone you trust, you
have to – you really want something that hasn’t been mined with like caustic chemicals
which they often do use to get the humic acid when they’re mining them. It’s really
a mining process so you want something that hasn’t been mine with any of these things. And for that you have to do a little bit of
digging. There are totally different qualities of humates and you get what you paid for to
a degree to. So it doesn’t matter if you use the dry or the liquid. I still primarily use it in my liquid foliar
feeds so I actually – it really ties together all of these biostimulants because what it
does is it allows your plants leaves coz your gonna be spraying this on to the plants mostly,
your kelp, your sea minerals whatever your spraying, your molasses, your fish, all those
things. If you include just a tiny little bit of humates
in with that it’s gonna help the plants absorb that better. Could be ten of times
better even a hundred times better because there is a process called chelation which
is where nutrients, vitamins, minerals are chelated to organic substances and that is
where the humate come in. They chelate with these minerals and make it much easier for
your plants to take them in. And so it’s creative I mean it’s wonderful
to put the dry product in the soil too but it can get a little bit pricey so I don’t
do that as often. Mostly I use my compost for that but for this really I love to use
it as a – as part of the foliar feed, it really ties everything together. And if you buy – if you go to the website
if you are not already there I’ll put a link below if you – you can see prices and
applications rate and such, just a pound of this stuff will go a long way for you. So you just buy a pound and you’re gonna
be set for awhile so that – it’s a really useful product. It’s kind of you know, I
recommend the other four products first that I’ve been talking about today with biostimulants
but this really is the fifth one and I use it every single time I apply a spray. And this stuff, this pound here has lasted
me for years so really good stuff. That’s all today for humates!

23 thoughts on “Humates – Best Organic Fertilizer For “Chelating” Nutrients

  1. well said mate, but u have much more to cover on humic/fulvic acids viz. cation exchange capacity, soil pH correction, increased porosity etc. But yeah….much covered in this short clip. Good job!!

  2. Hello Phil, peat, humates or other could be used as a natural organic chelat in a organic fertiliser?? What kind of natural source do you advise ??What could be the proportion for 100 liters for example??

  3. could be also be mixed in a organic biofertliser in order to chelate minerals?/ Do you think it will be effective?? Tks

  4. No, i was asking about leonardita and powder humates being added to organic liquid fertilizers in order to chelate minerals??

  5. What is your thoughts on Organicare's Humega (humic acid with added grow media)? It is by far one of the cheapests options Ive seen but it sounds great too. Too good to be true? There are websites out there with a product pdf for all of the Prganicare's line of OMRI products but I cant link it of course. Thanks, subbed

  6. I understand Phil, and trust me, I am interested in your academy. Seems very worthwhile for a lot of different people, including conventional guys like me coming into organic. I did not look into your website and what you do until after I replied to the vid. Thanks for the reply and keep up the good fight.

  7. Question, if you find an organic one of really good quality could you r drink it ?

    People are making fulvic and humic acid from humic and selling it, so why not ?

  8. Humate is coal, only its oxidized.  Its also non polar which means it cannot associate with water.  The actual high carbon molecules of soil that we can call Humic molecules are not a catabolic product, such as composting.  They are an anabolic product built during a chemical reaction in soil.  They are not built in the composting environment as  that's the wrong environment lacking the precursor chemicals needed for that anabolic process.

  9. I have some powered humic acid from Manitoba. It says mix the small $10 bag (don't remember exact size) with 1quart of water to create concentrate and use 1tablespoon with each gallon of water. it says apply to soil 2-4 times a year, but does not give the application rate per surface area, in acre or feet. I want to add a maximum amount over my new beds to make them come alive so to speak. I want to add a difference making amount without over-doing it. I'm trying to get the EC% up higher and I'm at 10% OM right now, so I don't want to add too much humus to the soil, other than a maintenance amount of course.

  10. I just found your youtube site and you really know about a lot of stuff but why don't you give any details.Why waste time talking about a product and give NO details.Why are you telling us to go some place else after wasting this time???

  11. just remember that humates are mined from the soil… their carbon is from ancient deposits. Adding them to soil eventually releases their carbon content into the atmosphere as they will decompose in the presence of oxygen and microbes. this is not a great idea.. you are burning brown coal.. in the soil, slowly, but surely. Compost is the preferred solution. Recycle the nutrients that are in the biosphere, stay away from long ago buried deposits.

  12. hey Phil thanks for the great info! I am preparing my EM mixture in a 1L jar like you showed in another video. How much 6% humic solution should I add to the EM solution? Or if I am making a compost tea how much EM solution and/or 6% humic acide solution should i add about? Sorry for the long question but I would really appreciate it! thank you! 🙂

  13. Go to Green Earth They manufacture a liquid all organic ionic humate. Amazing stuff. 10 ppm make up.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *