I Gave In And Bought Compost

The word compost is a bit confusing, as it
can mean two different things, both of which can be really important when managing a vegetable
garden or a growing space. There is the growing medium or potting compost
that is used as a soil substitute for starting seedlings or for growing plants in pots, and
I generally buy in a few bags of this material every season. But what I usually refer to as compost is
the decomposition of plant debris, animal manures and other organic material, into a
valuable soil amendment. This bulk material is useful in much larger
quantities for adding fertility and improving the soil quality in the gardens and other
growing spaces. I’ve made a lot of this type of compost over
the years, as it’s an essential component of most of the growing methods that I am trialing,
but I never seem to have enough. I could always produce more by growing and
collecting additional material from the surrounding landscape, collecting even more food and garden
waste, and sourcing manure and straw from local farmers. But every year I have struggled to produce
enough compost, partially due to effort it takes to deal with bulk material like this,
the fact that I need to proactively acquire more materials well in advance of needing
it, and the fact that the decomposition process can take some time. And this year, for the first time, I bought
in a load of finished compost for the gardens. With all of the different family scale growing
spaces that I manage, I need a lot of compost. Each season I use up to 3m2 of finished compost
to amend the beds in the 100m2 Intensive Garden, which is equivalent about 4 cubic yards or
30 full wheelbarrow loads of compost. I also use about the same amount of compost
for the Polytunnel Garden, which is the same size and also following an intensive method. I need at least 1m3 of compost for the Extensive
Garden, and should really be using at least 2m3 for the Polyculture Garden. The Simple Garden relies on sheet composting
on the garden bed itself, rather than adding finished compost, but still requires a lot
of un-decomposed material. And since I have changed to the method of
using a thick layer of finished compost as a surface mulch in my No-Dig Garden, this
one growing space can easily use 5m3 of compost each season. So this means that I would need up to 14m3
of finished compost every year to trial all these different gardening methods. And that doesn’t include the amount of un-decomposed
material that I’d need for the Simple Garden, or any compost I might use in any other growing
spaces that I have, or anything for the much larger Black Plot. But in recent years I have typically made
between 6 and 8m3 of compost each season, which obviously isn’t enough. And last year I produced even less, mainly
due to the really dry conditions which restricted the growth in a lot of the landscape that
I usually rely on for composting material. So that means that I was really short of compost
at the beginning of this growing season. Over the past few seasons I’ve been searching
for other sources of compost, but it’s not so easy in my context. Many of the farmers around here use a slurry
tank to manage the wastes from their animals, which means that very few of them have any
manure available. I have manage to get in two loads of farmyard
manure but it wasn’t mature enough for use this season, and hopefully I’ll be able to
get some more in the future. But I am hesitant to bring in non-organic
manure supplies due to problems of herbicide contamination that we’ve had in the area in
the past. And my friends with the organic farm really
should be keeping all of their manure for their own operations. Thankfully, lots of people in the area have
horses, and last year a friend and I borrowed a trailer and hauled in a lot of partially
decomposed horse manure from a small local stable. This was used primarily as a mulch in the
No-Dig Garden, but unfortunately I wasn’t able to do it again this season. It is a lot of work to manage this bulk material,
and I usually need to keep it and store it for a while so that it can adequately decompose
before I use it on the gardens. This means that I have to acquire it before
I actually need it, which is not something that I’ve been good at in the past. At the start of this season, I realised that
I had less than half of the compost that I would want for my gardens, and some of what
I had wasn’t ready to be used yet. So for the first time I decided to buy in
finished compost for use in my gardens. There are a couple of suppliers of compost
here in Ireland, but it is a fairly new industry, and there is not a lot of options to choose
from. I found a local distributor of supplies from
one company that produces compost from garden cuttings and other green wastes, and it’s
apparently certified as meeting organic standards. It cost €55 per cubic meter bag, including
delivery to my site, and I ended up getting 6 of these cubic meter bags delivered, most
of which will be used for mulching the No-Dig Garden. I anticipated that the compost would not be
of great quality, or at least not very rich or fertile, but it was supposed to be free
of viable weed seeds and disease organisms, which was a good thing. As most of this material was to be used as
a mulch to cover surface of the No-Dig Garden beds, I figured that the low fertility would
not be such a big issue. But I decided that I should probably add some
chicken manure pellets, or some other fertiliser that was high in nitrogen, in order to boost
the fertility available to the plants wherever I used this compost. There is another supplier here in Ireland,
that has been recommended to me, that apparently produces compost which is much more suitable
for vegetable growing, but that option is more than double the price. It really was convenient having a sufficient
supply of finished compost available for use when I needed it, even if the quality wasn’t
great. This material was easy to manage, and it really
reduced the workload at a busy time of the year. It was also a nice change from my usual struggles
of trying to figure out how to ration the limited supplies of compost among all the
different gardens that I was growing in. It also meant that the compost that I did
have was able to mature a little bit longer which will make it more valuable later in
the year and next season. So far I have used about 4.5m3 or 45 wheelbarrow
loads of this compost on the No-Dig Garden, which allowed me to create a mulch about 50mm
or 2 inches thick over all of the growing beds. I have also used almost 1.5m3 or close to
15 wheelbarrow loads of compost to dig into some of the double dug beds of the Intensive
Garden. This finished off most of the 6 bags that
I had bought in, and I ended up ordering in another 2m3 of the same compost. I’ve been using this supply to top up the
beds in the Polytunnel Garden, either as a side dressing or when preparing beds for the
next crops, and occasionally I’ve used some of it in the other gardens. I still have one large bag of compost left
and I anticipate that most of this will be used to top up the mulch in the No-Dig garden
as I plant late summer and the autumn crops. This was a experiment for me, of making the
most of what was readily available in my context. And while this compost that I bought in filled
a huge hole in my supplies, I’m not overly happy about spending money on bulk soil amendment
like this, and so far I am not really impressed with the level of fertility that it had. There are signs of possible nitrogen deficiencies
showing on the potatoes and some of the other crops in the No-Dig Garden, despite the huge
amount of compost that I had applied. And this was even after I had spread some
chicken manure pellets in anticipation of this possible deficiency. On the basis of this it seems that it’s
worthwhile to spend extra money on better quality compost, and this is something that
I need to take into consideration in the future. I am planning to try compost from different
suppliers, to better understand the balance between cost and quality. There seems to be a definite trend towards
using gardening and growing methods that require a lot more compost, such as variations on
this No-Dig method. No doubt companies and organisations throughout
the country will respond to this demand, and other sources will become available. I think it would be really interesting to
explore the possibilities of establishing a composting facility that can operate at
a large enough scale to produce all of the compost that we would need in our community,
but that’s a project for another day. Growing vegetables is a resource intensive
process and many of us struggle with not enough compost of other forms of fertility. With all of the growing spaces that I’m
managing this year, and with the additional spaces I’m planning to use next year, I
could easily make use of 20m3 of compost a season, if not more, and that’s a lot of compost
to produce. In doing this I need to find a balance between
putting in all the work to produce as much as I can myself, importing bulk material for
composting, versus buying in finished compost. It makes sense to continue to develop and
manage resources in my immediate landscape, and to adapt the methods I use in my growing
spaces to make the most of the resources that are available in my context. But if I’m going to continue to explore this
No-Dig method or other methods that rely on lots of compost, and to grow vegetables over
such a large area, then I’m probably going to need to continue to buy in compost. I’d prefer to be more self reliant, but it
is good to be able to source alternatives that make things a lot easier, more productive
and more convenient, even if they’re not ideal.

100 thoughts on “I Gave In And Bought Compost

  1. you need a machine to load / unload bulk materials, like an old tractor with a front end loader. then you can mechanize your production of compost. usually theres some one who runs a chipper and cleans gardens / prunes trees around, typically they are always looking for some where to get rid of stuff.

  2. What industries in Ireland produce masses of organic waste? Might be worth hitting them up, building a giant pile and leaving it to do its thing. You could try brewing/food manufacturing companies, supermarkets/restaurants/cafes, arborists/logging/milling companies, orchards and seafood companies.

  3. great video, the no dig will eventually balance? if there is too much carbon will continue to absorb nitrogen but in the long run shouldn't it release it? at least you have options to choose here at Dominican Republic we don't even have the option to buy it, just not available at all.

  4. I'm glad you finally "gave in". It's for a good cause, for good people, and the land will do fine. Using the commercial compost as mulch has worked for me. I used it to cover grocery store veg waste, paper, & cardboard with compst on top. I allowed it to sit a season & made all the difference in fertility, at least for my two little beds. Observation is key and you do that very well. Thank you for the videos and your wonderful work. You totaly rock!

  5. farming is not easy, and not cheap too. oh how i wished i lived there myself and have access to large place so i can make compost 🙁

  6. Love getting notifications for your uploads. Still can't get enough about your content. Do you add many nutrients to your soil? You mentioned chicken manure for nitrogen, but do you do anything else on a large scale? Or does compost usually do the trick?

    Would love to see a video on finding a good balance when adding nutrients to a garden

  7. Great video! You would need a Karl Hammer in Ireland! His composting methods seem to be amongst the most elaborated around.

  8. Very interested in composting. Please do more on the subject. Currently I'm also breeding worms (night crawlers and red wrigglers) to be added to my garden and compost. Much more fun with worms!

  9. I hate buying compost, too. I've never bought compost by the yard/scoop because I am so afraid to get contaminated compost. So I buy Black Kow by the bag instead. However, it's really expensive and some years Lowes and home depot don't carry it at my local stores. But will carry it at the stores 50 miles north and south of me, go figure :/. The cheaper compost they do carry every year at every store isn't worth buying – it usually has a lot of sand and 1/2 inch rocks in it. I struggle to make enough compost to make it worth my while. I'm a firm believer in gardening on the cheap, but sometimes you just have to spend money and spending too much time makes no sense either.

  10. You do SO MUCH for one man! Any average home gardener would have just one of your gardens and feel they were putting in plenty of work at that. And you've got, what, six? And they're BIG gardens, too, not even just the side-salad type! So of COURSE you are overworked trying to do the labor necessary for six times (or more) what the average home gardener would grow! Don't feel bad about outsourcing some of that labor if possible. I hope you find a source for the compost you need at an affordable price.

  11. I'd be-careful with the manures, you really can never know whats in it (herbicides, low quality food, lead, pharmaceuticals whatever) . I'm accepting much lower yields and much more weeds just to avoid it.

  12. The way to make all that compost you need all by yourself would be to in invest in some small machinery, my friend. Kubota BX?

  13. Frankly, that seems like an absurd amount of compost in comparison to the amount by weight of vegetables you'll get out of the garden. Maybe bringing in chickens and sheep, goats or cows would help provide soil nutrients? Of course, that's space dependent.

  14. Right on the button. You state my problem too – making a couple of m2 of finished compost by hand is pretty hard work. Not least the collecting, storing mixing turning etc etc. For the first time, I have been thinking of buying in some compost.

    Now the old horse that provided out manure has died, I need another source for that component. We have an area of grass that provides three big barrows of clippings per mow three times a fortnight, but it needs incorporating pretty quickly which is something I can't always manage.

    I noticed a chaff cutter on ebay for not much last week – chops a regular bale into 2" lengths ideal for mixing with grass. For me getting sufficient browns has always been the most difficult part. That and finding room – compost making can be quite an extensive process.

    The time before, when we had a man do it, it took us three days to transport the "waste" to our "local" recycling centre. Last year we savaged our front privet hedge ourselves. We used our old push mower to pick up the leaves and stems. It was then blatently obvious that this was a much better base for compost than grass. It had reasonably chopped small brown stems, and of course lots of greens. Mixed with our other waste it made lots of excellent compost, and pretty quickly too. Slightly rough, but that just helps drainage…

    Thanks very much, another of your very thought provoking videos

  15. i don,t see compost as a fertilizer anymore.( a soil fertilizer yes a plant firtilizer no ) i tried to garden only using manure compost and failed big time ..:)
     now i feed the soil with the compost and the plants with culterra pellets and bentonite.. ( a clay mineral.)
    and i am really suspicious about the content of the compost.. i have seen some bad stuff that i don,t want in my garden

  16. This is one concern I have about no dig gardening. I do like the idea of the method in principle but when trying to become self sufficient in food (well veg anyway) it is sometimes difficult to justify the purchase of large amounts of compost from an outside source just to maintain a no dig methodology, if you can't produce all you need yourself. Another great, well rationalised video.

  17. Honestly labor wise, it just makes more sense to buy in even if you take a hit money/compost quality wise. One man can only do so much

  18. Are the chicken manure pellets a UK product? Reading through the comments, I see some folks suggest using livestock to fertilize and till the soil. But animal management adds more layers of time & effort, plus costs of feed & care. Whether practicing no-dig or traditional tillage, many folks(excluding you) may not understand that the soil biology has to be maintained with periodic applications of compost or mulch. Your overall growing operation is large enough, and your composting needs are large enough, that they could be viewed as two separate operations. If you are the primary worker in your gardens, and infrequently have outside help, then buying-in compost may be the cost effective way to go. This allows you to focus the bulk of your time & energy on the growing operation. Wish I could be there to manage the compost for you. 🙂

  19. How about a woodchip projekt to reduce the amount of compost? I am not sure how available it is at your place or if you have enough cuttings from hedges you can use with a shipper.

  20. arguably I'm sure to the fact that you're practicing a capitalistic style of gardening to feed the masses in your neighborhood for money and due to the fact that you're not practicing permaculture to the degree that you would know you need more trees to supply enough compostable materials on site.
    This is the reason your complications keep growing and your need for more money will never end.
    Unless you see fit to help create permaculture style of villages which can function without the use of money in a well-designed permaculture village population's self designed & self managed daily life activities.
    So therefore if you would like to assist in designing and eventually living in just such A Village free of charge and very well provisioned volunteer Style psych sharing in the chores with the rest of the village population in order to procure organic food & Sheltering materials which incidentally are also compostable. How series are service life of 20 years or so displays it's time to retire 40 foot tall three story bamboo tiny house over the integrated 20 foot ceiling height controllable ground floor Greenhouse – then please contact me
    We could use your talents with plants to help provision our free of charge – village population self designed self sustaining predominantly self governed by true consensus voting Sia our custom self designed specialized website which keeps you designing your permit culture Village automatically with like-minded people weeding out those who vote no on any proposal given ( but please note when someone votes no On Any Given proposal they're still designing forward – but they're moved into the group who voted no with them) to carry on with their Village design in a different direction

  21. Here in Brazil we use Castor Bean as a nitrogen source. There are some other ways in which inoculated soybeans, corn, beans, white clover, are plants that help fix nitrogen in the soil.

  22. looks like it's got a lot of filler in it… been having problems with that buying commercial manure in recent years.

  23. Composting needs loads of space and materials to begin with those with small gardens struggle to have sufficient material and space unless it’s brought in from outside. Here in the uk you can collect horse manure with straw for free from horse stables. You also need sufficient greens to compost so it’s hard. So it leaves little choice but to get ready made stuff. However some of these shop compost seems bulked up with sand. Catch 22 😞

  24. Have you considered adding activated biochar to this inferior compost. I have seen a marked improvement in my garden with its addition. My impression of chicken manure is that it works better if added in fall and allowed to break down over winter.

  25. Have you thought of placing slotted drainage pipe at the bottom of the compost piles to introduce more oxygen to the piles, speeding decomp? A little more complicated then a standard pile, but more oxygen creates compost faster. Turning the pile does this but the extra oxygen is used within a day or two. Drainage pipe allows air exchange more readily at the bottom of the piles, which increases decomp, which heats the pile which draws in more air. Etc…

  26. i go to the super market for veg..and offgrid i would do the same and then jar the left overs..i would however grow nice flowers and have bees present..

  27. The nitrogen deficiency is a natural proces of the decomposition of the compost. Micro-organisms USE nitrogen in their process of decomposing the compost. The fresher the compost the longer this proces takes. With bought in compost usually 2 years. Should use blood meal to overcome this process.
    Also compost sometimes has a ph of 8 so it works ph+, If your soil is already alkaline compost can actually hurt fertility levels.

  28. Nice video! My advice is you should hire someone who could help you in the garden and produce enough manure for you. 👍👍

  29. Good work man! You could save time and energy by not turning it. It will compost eventually, but it will take longer; 12 months to a couple of years. Just tarp it. My grandad was a farmer, his catechism was "learn one thing and get good at it." He started out with nothing got a mortgage on a 100 acre hill farm which he then bought and became a multi millionaire. Pick one method and stick to it – whichever you like, doesn't matter.

  30. Interesting video! Some gardeners report about growth problems due to residues of the herbicide aminopyralid in purchased compost or horse manure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7vr-GlzuZs
    Did you ever have problems with aminopyralid?

  31. Nobody has enough compost! Unless they have a serious farm, 5+ acres.

    Often, you can either do soil improvement fast, or you can do it cheaply. Wood chips take ~four years to decompose in my climate, but they're free and plentiful. I compromised this year by having 2 tons of compost delivered (wasn't happy with the quality though) and after planting mulched with strimmed leaves from last autumn and then wood chips. It's not easy being patient, but I know in five years, I'll have a more fertile garden with less rock-hard clay (which at least is full of nutrients–gotta give it that). This year, I'll be combining a "good deed" by raking some elderly (more elderly than I, which is plenty! lol) widows' yards in my neighborhood and taking their leaves home. I bought a mulching leaf vacuum so I don't have to add the step of strimming. Native worms seem to eat a pretty thick layer of shredded leaves in about 4 months.

  32. Regarding your nitrogen deficiency, have you tried using Liquid Fish Fertilizer? That organic fertilization method really boosted all of my plants this year and none of them are showing any signs of nutrient deficiency. If you haven't tried it yet, I would highly recommend it!

  33. Having the compost was ok but never trust whattgry say if it's cheap great all you have to do is use blood fish and bone growmore and your very own pee /urine I use it on everything and it has every thing you need the plants to get really you could make a comfry and nettle tea blend dandilion leaves aswell it's all cheap free and it's amazing to use I wouldn't have anything else and straw around plants is great to old moisture and feed the what's under it I had strawberrie leavesthe size of my hands and a great crop

  34. try something new and clean.
    try aquaponics : water,fish and steady system of tanks
    100 m2 will give you vegetable more than a 1000m2 of land will give

  35. I wonder , are you going to test mixing your compost + product compost to improve the product compost and see does it work better?

  36. Was the fertility better in the home made compost?

    Is there another way to process your home made compost to make it easier/less intense on you?

  37. Depending on how cold it gets during the winter in you area, you could sow in a cold resistant pea or bean variety in Autumn, like Austrian Winter Peas, and harvest in the early fall. Peas and beans are nitrogen fixers, so they don't take nitrogen from the soil, only the atmosphere. Once you harvest the peas, just chop up and sow the debris from the pea plants back into the soil to give the soil a nice nitrogen boost.

  38. A little tractor with a front end loader could help increase your composting output. A tractor could also help move materials. I'm thinking of a 18 to 25 HP sub compact tractor.

  39. I dunno if this is helpful to you, but chipdrop.com allows you to get shipments, generally free or close to free, of woodchips from local arborists. Huge truck loads. Just let it sit, all that turning isn't necessary.

  40. You are talking as if it’s a crime to buy compost. If you need to buy in some compost, buy some compost, don’t feel guilty about it.

    If you haven’t watched videos of Elaine Ingham discussing soil life and fertility, I suggest you do. Might enlighten you that there is already plenty of nutrients in your soil. It’s just a case of boosting life in your soil which in turn unlocks the nutrients for your plants.

  41. Have you ever been tempted to explore a "No Compost" method? I am talking specifically about Natural Farming al la Fukuoka et al. See "Growing vegetables like wild plants" in his book, "The One Straw Revolution".

  42. Have you ever considdered wormfarming as the main decomposing method? As I understand it, this takes maybe as little as a quarter of the time to produce the same amount of compost. In addition, it is much less workintensive, and it promotes soil microlife, witch, I guess, must be paramount on a farm like yours. Altso, a healty wormculture doesn't smell as bad as a compost pile 🙂

  43. Do you think it would matter if you brought the compost in let say a month before usage? That way you could amended it with things like bone and blood meal and other organic nutrients before adding the garden.

  44. Sorry, ground cover with leaves of natives plants can solve that problem easily. Here in brazil, when the portuguese invaded are land, thay thought the natives din't plant food, because they can't realise that the food are planted together with the forest. The natives just respect and work with the forest. It's not a hard problem with you take the time to thing about it.

  45. I'm the same never have enough compost I manage to make at least 10 of those bulk bags a year yet never at the same time and always in need of more

  46. what do you think about helping the soil producing it´s own compost by feeding it with tons of (kitchen)scraps, clipping of gras etc. so it is covered, stays wet, attracts worms and gradually builds up compost by itself, instead of adding and adding compost?

  47. could you update us on the yield of the potatoes and other vegetables grown in the compost you bought. Like if its the same or more than last year i would consider that well worth the effort despite any nutrient deficiency seen in the plants.

  48. Its sad. The free compost in my area is essentially garbage; its people's "compost" or scraps of meat and yard waste that's decomposed and meets federal standards but when its wet its just like mud. Even when its dry it barely absorbs water better than clay. The cold compost I make doesn't cover my annuals… Fortunately my neighbours and I have a lot of cedar and deciduous trees that this year I'll be able to use as a mulch.

  49. The problem with horses is they don’t digest nearly as thoroughly as cows. Whole seeds commonly pass through. Of course properly composted manure will take care of it. The other problem is the average ph is around 8.5. Being you already have a high ph soil I wonder how it effects it. Iron is almost completely blocked out above 7.5 making me wonder if the lack of color is from iron deficiently. I bought 4 yards of compost 2 years ago. My crops wouldn’t grow, even store bought plants would die. I suspect the compost, which was made from yard waste, had some sort of herbicide. I hate having things out of my control but sometimes you have no choice. I went from having a garden people drooled over to almost nothing. One crop seemed to flourish, sweet and regular potatoes. The plants grew like weeds and were incredibly healthy. This year I brought in 7 yards of horse and 4 yards of custom blend for the top. I also added bagged mushroom and black kow. The horse was $3 a yard and the custom was $50. I trailered it in myself. Here’s hoping for a good crop.

  50. Thankfully my city offers free composted mulch and I get several cubic yards a year. It needs to be sifted and it is usually of higher salinity than I prefer but it gets the job done. I have very sandy soil so it's critical for water retention.

  51. I am making a lot of compost now that I am expanding my new property. I have bought tow loads of compost in 4 years. It f-ed my garden both time. Once it wasn't finished and they wouldn't pick it back up so I was stuck with it and it wasn't worth the free cost. The second time was for no dig garden style but had pesticides in it and really f-ed all my crops.. Plus it wasn't finished compost. My garden is pretty f-ed and I started as a raised bed, so a lot of time and money is really f-ed.

  52. Appreciate your remarks and dilemma, as always, useful information.
    I have bought 'compost' and always felt it frivolous. Spending money for something I could produce myself at a very high cost for the quantity available.
    On the flip side it is an incredible amount of work to produce at any scale useful to even my small Urban vegetable garden.
    I have watched your videos targeted at compost appreciating your experiences and do hope you continue to compost and share those experiences.
    And will look forward to results of this large-scale purchased compost.

  53. AS a maintenance gardener, I do quite a few hedges, at first I used to dump the waste in a skip, but now, 99% of my waste is composted. then put back on customers gardens, it has saved me so much money. watching your videos has helped a lot to understand the process I even made a large sieve after seeing your videos.

  54. It’s not caving in, it’s basic mathematics, you simply weren’t producing enough and therefore needed to supplement with buying it. Don’t feel bad, you’re still doing awesome!

  55. Can anyone suggest a place to buy compost in the Florida area? They must also sell in super sacks. There are companies that make compost there but I can't find any that ships in supersacks

  56. as per the other market gardeners recent video on compost…it all disappears within a year.
    you only get to keep in the soil about 0.1% and the rest becomes carbon dioxide aired to the atmosphere.
    makes you wonder about the economics of doing it.

  57. I recently acquired an old gardening book from the 1930's. One of the interesting snippets is that the French salad growers of those times spread 50 tons of rotted manure per acre over their land, every year. That was a few cart loads !

  58. Hello, I’ve been thinking about the low nitrogen even after the chicken poop pellets. I had a good look at the compost closeups you show and I can see a lot of not yet decomposed wood and maybe some sand as it looked grainy? As far as I understand compost, the real one of decomposed plant matter hence the name, to compost woody stems, twigs and the like you need nitrogen. This nitrogen usually comes from the green type matter. No in your purchased “compost” that has low nitrogen once spread onto the garden the wood needs nitrogen to break down so it will draw this from the soil and whatever’s left in the original bagged mix.

    Funny thing is that charcoal that’s put raw into the ground absorbs the nutrients as well until saturated. This is why you pre charge it with nutrients before hand.

    I’m not totally sure about sand added to the mix but by mixing a shovel full in a 60 litre bucket of water you can see what settles out. Any sand is just filler, totally inert and just reduces the actual amount of useful product in the bag. So the additional fertiliser and possible filler sand plus the deprived crops could mean the €110 real deal compost might not actually be dearer.

    Still I understand your quandary, buying in products must sit like a stone in your gut considering you gardening methods and successes.

    I’m not trying to wind you up as these are just my thoughts on possible causes and I always wish you luck as I like the results.

  59. Thank you for your videos, I have learned much from you and wanted to let you know how appreciative I am for your work. Please keep sharing your work.

  60. If you've moved to Ireland? Please have the decency to speak the languge correctly and not in that Nth American corrupted twang! If I ask you the Cost of Compost, that's exactly how its pronounced! It's not the Coast of Compoast.. 🙁

  61. I always feel silly buying compost but it's much more trouble to make large amounts than the happy-talk Youtube channels suggest.

  62. Nothing wrong with your compost. You have to pull a switch in your head and think green, natural works better and slower, you want to see to fast successes. Worms should eat compost to make fertilizer from it. Do you have enough worms in your soil? Long term you are much better off with a composted garden. I have a green garden since 3 years, now beetles eat snails, birds eat snails and worms, before the garden was synthetic fertilized for 50 years, the soil was dead. Compost is a fertilizer when it is eaten by worms, you use it more like a cover for your garden, in the video. You have to think slower, natural works slower, better for long term. In 2-3 years you will have al the benefits of a green garden including better taste of your vegetables, strawberries that taste like strawberries instead of a watertaste. Less diseases, less problems, nature will do a lot of the work you do, It takes time.

  63. Have you seen the video back to Eden Organic Gardening – Free Gardening Documentary
    Might be of interest to you.
    Needs no compost…


  64. Good vid,compost is a very time intensive process .with a great deal of labor- that why it's not free,as you know,the only good addition is vermiculture.I don't know if you've tried it it but it's a excellent addition ,but all good things take time,all the best in your future success !

  65. a local horse yard is the saviour of the home composter, our allotmnt gets a regular supply of horse muck and its great stuff!

  66. Thank you for this video, we have just started our 3 acre NO DIG farm in Suffolk UK (SEE OUR CHANNEL) and we have just brought in 5 1000l of PAS100 compost to start with, and we have organic manure for next year along with making our own, but tbh will probably still buy in stuff to top up, I feel (this may change) that its one of the best investments, without good soil fertility, you will have failed crops, so I think, it's important to factor in costs when setting up a no-dig farm, we have added it yearly to our business plan, so if one year we do not need as much then that would be good, but hopefully if we do, the money will be available. Anyway, your place looks amazing, wishing you all the best and thank you for a great video.

  67. BRO! Throw in some shredded up cardboard and paper for extra N! Just mix it in that compose Brother! bluepitt.com

  68. Wanted to share a couple ideas that have worked for me in the past. Wood chips are great, but as you know a source of N is important. Making friends with a local dairy farmer could be a way to get waste corn silage or grass silage. Typically there is waste on the front of the bunk and along the top, sometimes more spoilage gets in. It all has a shelf life and when it's bad, it's bad. Usually the waste is pulled off and spread with the manure. It may take some time for them to build up a big pile, but it will be rich material. I'll bet you could offer to trade produce for waste silage, they may even load your trailer for you with their machinery….fresh produce makes friends fast!

    I've composted 1/3 waste corn silage and 2/3 wood chips mixed with a manure spreader. Bulk raw poultry litter mixes well with wood chips too.

  69. Great video! It is the gardeners dilemma to always be seeking to improve your soil. My garden was all clay and rock when I started 20 years ago. I created one new bed a year, removing all the rock and clay that I could and disposing of it. Then I started with new soil and manure. After 10 years I had 10 beds with decent soil, but they need to be topped up continually with compost. It seems you can never get enough good soil, and your soil is never good enough. Almost makes you want to switch to hydroponics!

  70. Have you had any problems with invasive shrubs? Our neighbor planted something that has taken over and is now in our yard. It's a woody and comes up from runners underground. In 1 year it has taken over an entire 100sqft of
    What should be our vegetable garden. I've been cutting it at the ground but it always comes right back up!!

  71. If you get this message it might offer some sound advice. Here in my local area we have a family with a rabbitry. We buy in several tonnes of his rabbit manure at the cost of human labor and a few dollars per tonne. Have you considered using rabbits as a source of compost material? The animals will add two sources of end product for your operation – manure and meat .
    We find it offers a much higher quality material and a little goes a long way. We add straw, grass clippings, table scrap and cardboard from our local area.
    Just an idea from a rookie backyard gardener. Cheers and excellent progress from when I first watched a video of yours a couple years ago.

  72. Start mulching with woodchips and grass clippings. Feed your yard waste to chickens and you'll never run out of chicken compost

  73. If the eco-fascists had their way they would ban synthetic fertilizers and everyone on the planet would starve.  With all the low IQ people in his thread it would seem to be that is just around the corner.  I'm glad I am not going to have any competition in agriculture in the future given that all your compost based no dig farms are going to fail at about YEAR 8 when the phosphorus levels in your soil are sky high and you can't grow anything.  My produce sells 10 times faster than any organic farm at my market because my plants are all 100% healthy because I use science, not third world farming techniques, IE composting.  Composting is anti-science, it should only be used if you cannot purchase synthetic fertilizer. This is why they stopped teaching critical thinking in school.  The elites want you idiots doing no dig farming so you won't ever build a farming system that can compete with theirs.  Durkie dur.  Use your heads.  Research why organic farming is unsustainable.  The amount of land it takes to compost all this compost you are buying is ridiculous.

  74. I think perhaps u are missing the use of that very good product u are using, enrich compost is high quality buffered organic matter, microorganisms live on this material, adding compost tea, worm tea to this is like Unbelievable duude. Study more, please, you are actually giving out a bad rap for an amazing product and misleading information to novice growers.

  75. Had similar experience this year, expanded to a much larger area, needed compost for top dressing and bought in bulk from local place. Fertility was extremely low and that are has struggled this whole year, with much being pulled or havign a low yield. Its a large are so hard to afford the higher quality bagged stuffed that I use in our smaller raised bed garden area. Need to keep looking.

  76. You look exactly like someone I know named Bruce that does lining on trucks. Also from southern Ontario. Could you be related, cousins perhaps. Freakishly identical

  77. My grandma had a reasonable sized back yard which was fully established with veggies and she used to let her chickens run through it. Her garden was beautiful. My mother was the same except she didn't keep chickens but ordered the manure in. Same thing. Beautiful green lush edible vegetation. Such a blessing and so are you. Thanks.

  78. Interesting video, 440 Euros on compost that's a lot of money for vegetables, just curious is your growing space for personal use or markets? Especially since the compost like you say isn't the best and will deteriorate over time.

  79. Its a prob;em I have as well on a limited budget. Could you mix bought in with your own compost on your scale an old cement mixer may make work less back breaking. Look forward to further updates. Keep them coming as you make brilliant topics

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