Survival Gardening: Raised Planting Beds in English (accent from USA)

This video explains
how to create raised planting beds. Why should you do raised planting beds? They reduce soil compaction
and improve the soil, making it looser and more crumbly. Raised planting beds will help protect the planted
area in times of excess rainfall. All of these things together will help you grow more
vegetables for you and your family. First, lay out a 1 meter wide
planting bed with stakes and string. Then mark out a half meter
wide foot path between beds using another set of stakes and strings. If the soil is compacted, double dig the planting
bed area to loosen the soil. First, dig up and set aside soil
to about the depth of the shovel. In the same area where you have dug, use the shovel to loosen
the soil one more depth of the shovel. This process loosens
the soil to a depth of 20 to 30 cm. The procedure will result
in improved plant and root growth. Next, dig a center trench
that is 50 cm wide and 20 cm deep. As you remove soil
pile it on both sides of the trench. Line the trench with
a layer of banana leaves, cabbage leaves, or other large pieces of vegetation. Use what you have. Next place 20 cm
of vegetation in the trench and then water it. If green vegetation is available, it is preferable. If only dried vegetation is available,
use what you have. Then use the sprinkler can
to water the vegetation layer. Add 5 cm of animal manure
on top of the vegetation and then add water again. If the animal manure
is both dried and readily available, you can add more to the trench. However, if you have fresh animal manure it would be a good idea
to mix it with the vegetation. Cover the center trench by pulling soil over
the planting bed area. Pull extra soil from
sides of the planting bed leaving a recessed foot path
on both sides of the planting bed. When completed, this process will result
in the raised bed elevated 35 to 40 cm above the bottom of the foot path. Your slopes will likely not be
as steep as the slopes shown here. They are more likely to look like this. Smooth the top
of the raised bed using a rake, a piece of wood, or your hands to prepare a level raised bed surface
for placement of the drip irrigation lines. If you have dried manure from
chickens, goats, or rabbits available, a thin layer of it can be added to the
top of the raised bed prior to planting. This top dressing of nutrients
will give your plants a quick start after they have been
transplanted into the planting bed. In order to optimize your production, it is best to plant two rows of plants
in each raised bed, as shown here. If drip irrigation lines are not available
the plants can be hand watered. If water is limited,
only water at the base of your plants. After two or three years of production, planting beds can
be renewed or rejuvenated. Simply move your raised beds
half a meter to the left or right. The old foot path will become
the new compost trench. As the new compost trench
is covered with soil the old compost trench
will become the new foot path. Remember that as plants grow
they remove nutrients from the soil. Through the use of composting,
we give nutrients back to the soil. By adding compost
to your raised planting beds, you will increase the organic matter
as well as the soil nutrient level. The result will be increased production.

7 thoughts on “Survival Gardening: Raised Planting Beds in English (accent from USA)

  1. This is excellent. I wish I had watched it before preparing and planting my garden this summer. But I will remember to do it in a couple of years when I alternate paths with beds.

  2. been doing this for some time, not 100% the same but pretty close, this is the first time I seen it explained in detail, thank you

  3. If you go to all that trouble then just make a hugelgarden. Benefits are far less watering needed and when it breaks down it is self fertilizing.
    Use Ollas on top if you have issues with getting or affording water until the garden is about 1 year old. Best to complete building one by mid fall so you get the benefits from rainy/snowy weather.

    About animal manure:

    DO NOT USE CAT MANURE! Do not use carnivore manure either.

    If you get manure from a commercial place it can have pesticides, herbicides, hormones, etc in it from what the animal consumes. Not to mention the astronomical weed seeds you can get.

    Benefits from a hugelgarden can last a whopping TWENTY YEARS.

    Note: the first year and sometimes two are hardest for getting it to work well due to it 'breaking in'.
    After that, things improve drastically.

    While the author of the video did give great advice, such a process they gave might not be optimal for many places (like hills for example, arid reasons, etc.).

  4. Might be a good concept but its not practical. Really, how long would it take this man to get that area prepared? How soon will he throw his back out shovelling? How muddy will the trenches stay after a heavy rain. It will look like a river.

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